Some things are classic. Derby on Park—so named for its location on the corner of Park Street in Five Points—is one of them. Originally a Texaco Gas Station in the 1950s, the space has undergone a few transformations, serving as a greasy spoon for years before reopening as a more upscale spot in 2012, changing hands in 2018 and ultimately closing later that same year. In 2019, Chad Munsey and Michael Schmidt (owners of San Marco BBQ joint The Bearded Pig and Five Points arcade bar Rec Room) took over, reimagining the menu and the interior as a modern-day diner, and rebranding as Derby House Diner.
The revamped restaurant is cozy and comfortable with a soda bar and banquette seating. Outside, a full shaded patio offers a place to unwind with a cocktail from the full liquor bar, which serves tropical classics like daiquiris ($10) and painkillers ($10).
In true diner style, the menu focuses on a mix of comfort food classics and trendier dishes for brunch, lunch and dinner. Dig into the traditional diner breakfast plate with two eggs any style, hashbrowns or grits, a choice of meat and toast ($9). The hashbrowns are of the shoestring variety—ultra-crisp and ready for ketchup—and best followed up with a fluffy, flavorful short stack of pancakes ($4). If more contemporary eats are your jam, try the crab omelet ($12). The dish is surprisingly light considering it’s stuffed to the brim with jumbo lump crab and dressed with Hollandaise.
Lunch and dinner options are of the heartier variety—cheesy Reubens dripping with Thousand Island ($12), flat-top burgers stuffed with thin patties ($9.50)—but there are healthier options, too. In fact, Derby is one of the only restaurants in Riverside offering juicy (and vegetarian) Beyond Burgers ($9.50), with sides ranging from salt-and-pepper fries to kale salad.
For dessert, check out the display case of cakes and cookies baked by Anita Adams, former owner of popular Avondale confectionary Let Them Eat Cake. Need help deciding? Just ask Jackie, a waitress who’s worked at the Derby since 2012. Some things never change.
*
— Let’s Do Brunch —
Brunch is served on weekends, 9 AM-3 PM, and includes
Build Your Own Mimosas: a bottle of champs and a choice of
two juices for $19.
— Blast From the Past —
The black-and-white photos lining the walls offer a glimpse
at the Five Points of years past.
— Plat du Jour —
A daily Blue Plate Special (think meatloaf)
will soon be offered each day.
Derby House Diner
1068 Park St., Riverside
(904) 379-3343
derbyhousediner.com // @derbyhousediner
words by Brentley Stead // photos by Agnes Lopez
