Jacksonville is experiencing something of a dim sum renaissance, with restaurants serving the Chinese tradition popping up in various parts of town. The latest to specialize in the flavorful morsels is S&R Dim Sum in Riverside. In an unassuming storefront that once housed Tamarind Thai patrons will find a surprisingly spacious restaurant with a tidy interior. Owned by a local family, diners are greeted by Maria, or “Ma,” who escorts them to a table. Her husband, Chef Ping, is the man behind the menu.
Dim sum translates to “little heart” and the best way to enjoy it is with a few friends while ordering lots of different dishes. Each order is typically made up of three to four pieces—one order means everyone gets a bite. In lieu of a traditional cart, the dim sum at S&R is ordered off a menu (this one comes with full-color visuals) and arrives piping hot in individual stainless steamer trays.
Grab your chopsticks for traditional favorites such as stuffed eggplant with shrimp ($5.25), pan-fried chive dumplings ($5.25), steamed pork buns ($4.75) and delicate, wavy fried shrimp balls ($5.25).
A special find is the tray of soup dumplings ($5.95) which arrives with a curved spoon—an integral part of enjoying these juicy creations. Each of the hand-twisted dumplings is filled with hot broth along with a hearty, meaty filling and steamed on fresh bok choy leaves so that the bottoms won’t stick and tear. After allowing the dumplings to cool, diners are encouraged to scoop one up and nibble a small bite to allow steam to escape. After a moment, you’ll be able to slurp some of the rich broth without the danger of swallowing a mouthful of hot liquid.
Aromatic and crave-worthy, the eatery’s salt and pepper dish (available with tofu, shrimp, eggplant, squid or pork, $13) is another simple but tasty option. Each bite is crisp without being too heavy and topped with a fragrant concoction of fried garlic, chilies, scallions and, of course, a heavy hand of salt and pepper.
The primary draw here are the shareable options, but there are a variety of other dishes, such as General Tso’s Chicken ($12) or Spicy Hunan Beef ($13). It’s the dim sum options, though, that will have diners coming back for—well—sum more.
— Sweet Stuff —
Save a little room for a warm and gooey
pineapple custard bun ($4.75) for dessert.
— Park It —
With plenty of seating, don’t worry about making reservations.
Parking in Five Points, however, can be a challenge come dinner time.
— Gluten Gamble —
Many of the dishes that comprise a dim sum-inspired lunch are
either steamed or deep-fried. Gluten-free eaters will be hard-pressed
to find options that suit their dietary concerns.
S&R Dim Sum
1661 Riverside Ave., Five Points
(904) 551-0836
words by Brentley Stead // photos by Agnes Lopez
