Murray’s Taco Bodega is the newest eatery to grace Murray Hill’s expanding restaurant roster

words by Brentley Stead // photos by Agnes Lopez

You’ll spot the inviting, colorful sign marking Murray’s Taco Bodega from a block away. The fast-casual taqueria is one of the latest openings in the recent influx of restaurants, retail, and bars dotting Edgewood Avenue. The Bodega is a property of Maple Street Biscuit Company, the same folks who opened B Street Eats, which closed in this location a few months ago. As to be expected from this culinary team, the interior offers a welcoming vibe, with bright pops of color and a fun outdoor area in the back, perfect for large (and loud) groups. Order at the counter and they’ll give you the name of a famous Murray to place at your table. (We got David Murray, jazz musician and Murray Walker, semi-retired Formula One motorsport commentator and journalist.)

Tacos are, of course, the draw, though the menu—the brainchild of local meat-smoker Mark Ballinger—is full of non-traditional flavors, any of which can be ordered on a choice of corn or flour tortillas or in a lettuce wrap.

First-timers are advised to start their meal with a chips-and-dip flight, featuring the holy trinity of Mexican sauces: guac, queso and fresh pico de gallo ($9.95). The chips—homemade and slightly thicker than the standard tortilla chip—offer a satisfying crunch and hold up to the weight of fresh avocado, molten queso and chunky tomatoes.

The Nashville Hot Chicken taco or “Make Me Sing” is a wild ride ($3.45), with chunks of fried chicken, drizzled with sour cream and dressed with chopped sweet pickles and flecks of bright, fresh dill. On the more substantial side of the menu, the “Tinga” taco is just as fun to say as it is to eat ($5.95). Like the bodega’s bowls or nachos, patrons pick their protein; the staff recommended the smoked chicken. It comes piled on a crispy corn tortilla, with a mountain of lettuce, cotija cheese and a choice of black or charro beans. Vegetarians will appreciate the wide variety of meat-free options, from a Brussels-heavy “Round Sprout” taco ($3.45) to the “I Guess I Do Like Veggies” taco ($3.45), stuffed with harissa-dressed, roasted cauliflower and topped with peanuts for added texture.

The Bodega doesn’t yet have its liquor license, though it’s still getting creative with cocktails, offering margaritas made with agave wine in lieu of tequila. Margarita purists likely won’t be convinced; we suggest opting for a more traditional Jarritos soda ($2.95) or Mexican hot chocolate milkshake ($4.95) instead.

The dessert menu is small-but-mighty, with playful offerings such as a bucket of s’mores ($14.95)—which can be assembled outside at the restaurant’s fire pits—or a pineapple taco ($4.95), served in a puffy fried shell coated with cinnamon sugar and slathered with homemade whipped cream.