words by Damon Noisette // photos by Jessie Preza
Syndicated cartoonist Walt Kelly’s long-running comic strip Pogo was set in the nearby Okefenokee Swamp and featured the adventures of a wise opossum and his friends. Known for his generosity and willingness to share meals, Pogo Possum served as the namesake inspiration for a new Amelia Island eatery on A1A, Pogo’s Kitchen.
Dr. Robert and Wendy Hogan purchased the GG’s Bistro building near American Beach in 2016 and set out to completely renovate the sleepy neighborhood restaurant into a casual space for the Fernandina set. Also the owners of the stylish Amelia Tavern in Fernandina Beach, the Hogans tapped Kristen Biagini to design the eatery and the result is stunning and refined, with considerable wood accents, mid-century seating, and an outdoor space with its own babbling brook. Florida photographer Paul Marcellini’s breathtaking black and white photographs from deep inside the Okefenokee are on display throughout the dining room. Pogo’s can accommodate just under a hundred guests overall, the private dining area can be closed off for up to 40 guests, and a stocked bar sits just to the right of the entrance.
Alan Heckman, a Culinary Institute of America product who cooked in fine dining restaurant Canlis in Seattle and Top Chef judge Tom Colicchio’s Craftsteak, comes to the island as the executive chef of Pogo’s. His menu is still changing, but it is essentially a Northern twist on a Southern theme.
Some cheeky substitutions, like seasoned popcorn that greets diners instead of bread, and boiled peanut hummus ($8) with grilled flatbread, ginger, and scallions, work well as starters. The chorizo-stuffed calamari ($15) is an interesting idea but ultimately a strange marriage of flavors; the she-crab soup ($11) with its blue crab cake, smoked roe, pickled celery, and creamy base is a safer choice, as are the lobster hush puppies ($16).
One thing to note is Pogo’s menu has Amelia Island prices and entrée portions suited to individuals. The low country boil ($34) goes decidedly upscale, adding lobster, scallops, and mussels to the down home dish’s classic ingredients of shrimp, andouille sausage, potatoes, and corn. The short rib stroganoff special ($15) was a heartier option.
Chef Heckman’s take on banana pudding ($8) is a deconstructed version of the dessert with a panna cotta wafer and vanilla ice cream. The trio of espresso ganache-filled beignets ($7), dusted with powdered sugar, and paired with cinnamon ice cream are more traditional and definitely delectable.
Pogo’s also serves a pair of caffeinated cocktails. The martini ($12) comes with two shots of espresso, Tito’s vodka, and Kahlua. And the Insomniac ($10) is one shot of espresso, Ketel One vodka, Frangelico, Kahlua, and cream.
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Reserve a Seat
Reservations can be made for parties of up to four by calling the restaurant, via its website, or through the Tock app.
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Half Time
Half-priced cocktails and beer are served during lunch hours, 11 AM-2:30 PM. There is also half-priced wine on Tuesdays.
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Now Open
Pogo’s is open for lunch Tuesday through Friday, dinner Tuesday through Saturday, and for brunch on Sunday.
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Pogo’s Kitchen
1408 Lewis St., Fernandina Beach
pogoskitchen.com
(904) 432-8483
